It is often only seen on special occasions, but for a long time the pocket square for men was part of a complete outfit. You will also find terms such as cavalier scarf, pocket square or pochette, all of which describe the same thing: a scarf that is neatly folded and tucked into the lapel pocket. But how do you fold a pocket square correctly? We'll show you four variations that you can fold effortlessly.
What you should consider before folding
Unlike a bow tie or tie, the pocket square is not necessarily part of the classic suit, it is rather the icing on the cake of good style. It should be color-coordinated with the suit; the color of the tie is often picked up again. You can often find both together as a set, which is particularly practical with eye-catching patterns. However, true gentlemen advise against wearing ready-made sets.
The elegant silk scarf is popular with many men, but pocket squares made from woolen fabrics, e.g. tweed, are also a popular choice for many men. You can choose a scarf to suit your taste; cotton and linen are also possible. Ideally, you should iron your pocket square before folding it so that it is completely crease-free. Only then will the folds really come into their own.
Before you start folding, you should wash your hands and choose a clean, dust-free surface, as dirt in the pocket square is an absolute no-go. Then it's time to decide on a folding technique - the choice is endless. We have put together the four most common techniques for you.
The classic triangular fold
Probably the most common folding technique in the triangle. It is quick to make and can be easily refolded at any time if the pocket square slips out of place.
- Lay the handkerchief face down in front of you, with one corner facing you. Now fold the bottom corner upwards so that you have a triangle.
- Now fold the left-hand corner slightly over the middle. The corners should not touch.
- The last step is to fold the right corner to the left in the same way as the left corner. Now you have to turn the pocket square once and you can insert it into the lapel pocket with a perfect fit.
Simply folded as a rectangle
If you don't want to go over the top but want to wear your pocket square in a very minimalist way, we recommend the right-hand corner pleat. Here, only the top edge of the pocket square peeks out of the lapel.
- Place the handkerchief in front of you with one side facing you. Now fold the right side to the middle.
- Now fold the left side over the right side.
- Finally, fold the upper side down to the lower third so that the scarf fits into your lapel pocket. You should insert the pocket square with the folded edge facing upwards.
Festive with the leaf fold
Have you been invited to a wedding or are you the groom yourself? Then you can use the three-leaf technique, which is undoubtedly one of the more elegant folding techniques. Sometimes the term wave folding or ship folding is also used, both of which describe the appearance of the pocket square after folding.
- Lay the handkerchief out in front of you with one corner facing you. Now place the bottom corner slightly offset on top of the top corner. The corners must not lie directly on top of each other.
- Now fold the left-hand corner to the top right next to the two tips, also offset. You now have three tips next to each other.
- Finally, the folded scarf must be carefully stowed in the lapel pocket. To do this, fold the right side down to the left to make it narrower and fit perfectly in the pocket.
Top class: the crown fold
This folding technique is particularly elegant, as the pocket square takes on the shape of a crown after folding. The crown fold is therefore recommended for very formal occasions.
- Place the handkerchief in front of you, with one corner facing you.
- Then fold the bottom half slightly offset in front of the top half so that the two corners are next to each other.
- In the next step, fold the left-hand side to the right so that the corner is on the far right next to the other two.
- Now fold the right-hand side to the left so that the fourth corner is right in front of the others. That's it!
Where does the pocket square come from?
The first pocket squares appeared around 1830 in the Biedermeier period. Here they were still worn as an accessory with riding clothes. In the middle of the 19th century, frock coats were also fitted with breast pockets, making it fashionable to wear a pocket square in everyday life. By the middle of the 20th century, it was less popular, and a tie and bow tie were enough for men. It is only since the 1990s that pocket squares have been on the rise again. In the recent past, it has also been accepted as a complete alternative to ties or bow ties.
There are dozens of folding techniques that can be used to shape the pocket square for the lapel pocket. Pins and elastics can also be used to hold the scarf in place. Safety pins can also be used, but these should be positioned so that they are not visible.
Plain, striped, patterned? Silk scarves with a slight sheen or with a paisley pattern are particularly popular for weddings. Romantic, floral motifs are also popular. Striking and high-contrast patterns should be chosen for evening wear for an event, while the colors should be very subtle for everyday wear. We recommend pastel shades, which can be combined well for all occasions.
Are you looking for a stylish suit and matching accessories? We will be happy to advise you and tailor your suit on request. Just contact us, we look forward to hearing from you!