Nowadays, it is often only seen on special occasions, but for a long time, the pocket square was an essential part of a gentleman's outfit. You may also come across terms such as pocket square, handkerchief, or pochette, but they all describe the same thing: a cloth that is neatly folded and placed in the lapel pocket. But how do you fold a pocket square correctly? We will show you four variations that you can easily replicate.
What you should consider before folding
Unlike a bow tie or necktie, a pocket square is not necessarily part of a classic suit; rather, it is the finishing touch to a stylish outfit. It should match the color of the suit, often picking up on the color of the necktie. You will often find both together as a set, which is particularly practical for eye-catching patterns. However, true gentlemen advise against wearing ready-made sets.
The elegant silk scarf is popular with many men, but pocket squares made of wool fabrics, such as tweed, are also a favorite choice for many gentlemen. You can choose a scarf to suit your taste; cotton and linen are also options. Ideally, you should iron your pocket square before folding it to ensure that it is completely wrinkle-free. Only then will the fold look its best.
Before you start folding, you should wash your hands and choose a clean, dust-free surface, because dirt on the pocket square is an absolute no-go. Then it's time to decide on a folding technique—the choices are endless. We've put together the four most common techniques for you.
The classic triangle fold
Probably the most common folding technique for the triangle. It is quick to do and can be easily refolded at any time if the pocket square slips out of place.
- Place the pocket square in front of you with the front side facing down and one corner pointing toward you. Now fold the bottom corner up to form a triangle.
- Now fold the left corner to just past the center. The corners should not touch each other.
- The final step is to fold the right corner to the left in the same way as the left corner. Now you need to turn the pocket square once and you can insert it neatly into the lapel pocket.
Simply folded into a rectangle
If you don't want to go overboard and prefer to wear your pocket square in a very minimalist way, we recommend the rectangular fold. With this fold, only the top edge of the pocket square peeks out from the lapel.
- Place the pocket square in front of you with one side facing you. Now fold the right side to the center.
- Now fold the left side over the right.
- Finally, fold the top down to the bottom third so that the cloth fits into your lapel pocket. You should insert the pocket square with the folded edge facing up.
Festive with leaf folding
Are you invited to a wedding or even the groom yourself? Then you can use the three-leaf technique, which is undoubtedly one of the more elegant folding techniques. Sometimes the terms wave fold or ship fold are also used, both of which describe the appearance of the pocket square after folding.
- Lay the pocket square out flat in front of you, with one corner pointing towards you. Now place the bottom corner slightly offset on top of the top corner. The corners should not lie directly on top of each other.
- Now fold the left corner diagonally to the top right, next to the two points. You now have three points next to each other.
- Finally, the folded cloth must be carefully stowed away in the lapel pocket. To do this, fold the right side down to the left, making it narrower so that it fits perfectly into the pocket.
The premier class: the crown fold
This folding technique is particularly elegant, as the pocket square takes on the shape of a crown after folding. The crown fold is therefore recommended for very formal occasions.
- Place the pocket square in front of you with one corner facing you.
- Then fold the bottom half slightly offset in front of the top half so that the two corners are next to each other.
- In the next step, fold the left side to the right so that the corner is right next to the other two.
- Now fold the right side to the left so that the fourth corner is at the very front, in front of the others. Done!
Where does the pocket square come from?
The first pocket squares appeared around 1830 during the Biedermeier period. At that time, they were still worn as an accessory to riding attire. In the mid-19th century, frock coats were also fitted with breast pockets, making it fashionable to wear a pocket square in everyday life. By the mid-20th century, they had become less popular, with ties and bow ties sufficient for gentlemen. It is only since the 1990s that pocket squares have made a comeback. In recent years, they have also become accepted as a complete alternative to ties and bow ties.
There are dozens of folding techniques that can be used to shape the pocket square for the lapel pocket. Pins and elastic bands can also be used to hold the square in place. Safety pins can also be used, but these should be attached so that they are not visible.
Plain, striped, patterned? Silk scarves with a slight sheen or paisley pattern are particularly popular for weddings. Romantic floral motifs are also popular. Eye-catching, high-contrast patterns are better suited to evening wear for special occasions; for everyday wear, colors should be very subtle. We recommend pastel shades, as these can be easily combined for any occasion.
Are you looking for a stylish suit and matching accessories? We would be happy to advise you and tailor your suit to measure on request. Just get in touch—we look forward to seeing you!