At the latest when the first colorful leaves fall from the trees, one thing is certain: it is time for a warm coat. Which coat men should choose this season, and whether it should be suitable only for autumn and spring, the so-called transitional season, or for winter as well, depends entirely on personal taste. All coats share a common past: the various types of coat were often designed for the military and, besides keeping the wearer warm, served stylistic purposes too. Today the men's coat is an established part of a business outfit. We show you which coat suits which style and how to work it into your wardrobe.
Classic and sure in style: the single-breasted wool coat for men
This very plain men's coat is made from wool blends and can cover every variant from down-to-earth to luxurious. Its notch collar harmonizes with elegant suits, which makes it one of the few coats that can be combined with a tuxedo. A more modern form of the wool coat comes with a stand collar and provides a neat, well-groomed look.
In terms of color, the wool coat is available in the classic shades of black, navy blue, brown, gray, cream and white, but also in more intense tones such as dark green, red, yellow, violet or gold. Patterned versions, above all in checks or with pinstripes, are becoming ever more popular too.
The classic coat cut ends above the knee; with a short coat the seat should always be covered. Some cuts reach below the knee and are popular above all with fans of historically inspired clothing or with lovers of fantasy. Particularly worth highlighting is the Crombie, a single-breasted short coat from the house of J & J Crombie, which achieved genuine cult status in the 20th century and became a synonym for short coats in heavy wool cloth.
Casual and warm: the duffle coat for men
Unlike all the other classic wool coats, the duffle coat has a hood and is therefore particularly warm. It is worn mainly on cold winter days and is a true all-rounder as a winter coat: its casual, contemporary style makes it a popular companion for men both in a business-casual look and in leisure wear. Together with chinos or jeans it not only provides great comfort, it also lets you make a successful fashion statement.
Duffle coats are available in all colors and often come with small details that are little highlights in themselves: alongside patch pockets, these can be toggle fastenings. Incidentally, duffle is the name of the fabric the duffle coat is classically made from: it originally came from Duffel, a town in Belgium, and gave the classic men's coat its name. Because the British field marshal Bernard Montgomery usually wore this coat during the Second World War, it is also called the Montgomery coat.
Elegant and festive: the Chesterfield coat
This winter coat, often single-breasted and more rarely double-breasted, has a long cut; the hem covers the thighs almost completely and often reaches to the knees. It also has an elegant vent at the back hem and often has hidden pockets. It creates a very distinguished appearance, which is why the Chesterfield combines well with a suit. It was originally conceived for getting about town and was long regarded as a so-called visiting coat. It is named after Sir George Stanhope, 3rd Earl of Chesterfield, and became popular with both men and women in the 1920s.
In keeping with its English origin, the Chesterfield is often made from heavy tweed cloth, usually in charcoal gray, light brown or navy blue. The collar is frequently faced with velvet, which lends the men's coat additional elegance. The width of the notch lapel can vary; here you may decide what you like. Unlined, the men's coat is a model for autumn; with a quilted version you will get through the winter well with it too.
Formal and suitable for everyday wear: the caban jacket
This men's coat is the one most similar to the blazer, or rather the suit jacket. This so-called overcoat or pea coat is a firm part of the navy's winter kit and has long since found its way into the fashion world as well. The double-breasted model is usually offered in navy blue, gray and the classic black, but green, burgundy and mottled colors as well as checks are becoming ever more popular too.
The caban coat is outstandingly suited as an overcoat with suits, both on festive occasions and with business clothing. Pockets are often integrated at the sides, and the cut always reaches beyond the seat. As for the material, cabans are often made in wool blends, but there are also a great many models in merino wool or cashmere.
Warm and windproof: the parka or down coat for men
It is probably the warmest coat, and it has its origin with the Inuit: the parka. Since the 1960s it has also been popular in fashion through the so-called military look, not least because its warm lining and the thick hood offer protection in any weather. The parka, or down coat for men, is also a very practical garment: it is fitted with several pockets in which small things such as wallets or gloves find a place in winter.
The cut is as a rule wide and very comfortable, and the length varies greatly. The shortest models, short coats, end below the buttocks; very long parkas can also cover the knees. The hood can usually be fixed with an additional drawstring, and on many down coats a faux fur trim provides additional warmth.
Windproof and waterproof: the puffer coat
The puffer coat is a further development of the parka: it is warmly lined, frequently with down or a down-and-fiber blend. The outer material is waterproof and dirt-repellent, which makes the puffer coat the ideal companion in all weather conditions. The cut often reaches to the knee, and the quilting gives it its typical surface.
Sometimes it is also called, in the classic manner, a quilted coat, but a puffer coat is a fashion statement in its own right. It is one of the trendiest garments for winter and comes with various extras such as a hood, a warming stand collar and adjustable sleeves. The typical large pockets on the front provide convenient storage space.
Sporty and soft: the polo coat
As the name suggests, this men's wool coat was originally worn in the sport of polo. It was designed as a double-breasted coat and is distinguished by large pockets and a very loose fit. The wide notch lapel is frequently rounded off by a stand collar, which lends the polo coat a great deal of elegance. Its origin in the British aristocracy can still be clearly recognized in the modern versions. It can be varied with details such as turned-back cuffs and patch pockets – and thereby gains in functionality.
In terms of color, muted tones in gray, camel and cream dominate, because camel hair used to be a popular basis for the polo coat. By now there are dark tones as well, such as black, navy or anthracite. The term camel hair coat is often used for the polo coat too.
Flexible and comfortable: the trench coat for men
Hardly any men's coat is as instantly recognizable as the trench coat: with epaulettes, a belt and storm flaps at the collar, it is perfectly suited to cooler autumn days. It comes both single-breasted and double-breasted in all the classic colors.
The trench coat has its origin in the First World War, and that is where the men's coat got its name too. Originally it was a raincoat meant to protect the soldiers from the adverse conditions in the trenches. The trench coat can be worn in many different ways and is particularly suitable for quickly throwing on over chinos with a shirt or a sweater. The coat may happily stay open so that your outfit underneath comes into view. Buttoned up, the trench coat exudes a dignified Humphrey Bogart charm that wants to be used skillfully.
Which model will your new winter coat be? We are glad to advise you comprehensively on suitable cuts, fabrics and colors. Simply book an appointment, we look forward to seeing you!