The fabrics of the Ermenegildo Zegna weaving mill: history, quality, and innovation

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The fabrics of the Ermenegildo Zegna weaving mill: history, quality, and innovation

The fabrics produced by the Ermenegildo Zegna weaving mill are among the most exclusive textiles in the world. Since 1910, the family-owned company in northern Italy has been producing the finest wool and cashmere fabrics, setting standards in quality, innovation, and sustainability. This article highlights the history of Lanificio Zegna, its exceptional materials, modern weaving techniques, and commitment to the environment and origin.

History of the Zegna weaving mill

In 1910, at the age of just 18, Ermenegildo Zegna founded Lanificio Zegna, a wool weaving mill in Trivero in northern Italy. Zegna took over his father Angelo's small textile business and pursued an ambitious dream from the very beginning: nothing less than "to produce the most beautiful fabrics in the world." With state-of-the-art English spinning machines and a pioneering spirit, he began producing high-quality wool fabrics for suits. By 1930, the company had grown to around 1,000 employees and was primarily producing fine suit fabrics.

In the late 1930s, Zegna's fabrics gained international recognition: in 1938, the weaving mill exported fabrics to the US for the first time. After World War II, the weaving mill, known as "Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna & Figli," supplied customers in 40 countries, cementing the brand's global reputation as a synonym for quality. After the company founder's death in 1966, his sons Aldo and Angelo Zegna took over the management. From 1968, Zegna produced its own suit collections, initially off-the-peg, and from 1972 also made-to-measure suits (the Su Misura program). Despite this expansion into the fashion business, textile production remained at the heart of the company.

Quality and luxury positioning of Zegna fabrics

For over 110 years, Ermenegildo Zegna fabrics have been synonymous with outstanding quality in the world of men's fashion. The founder placed great importance on selecting the best raw materials and excellent craftsmanship—a philosophy that lives on today. As early as the 1920s, Zegna sourced wool directly from Australia, South Africa, and Mongolia to use only the finest fibers for its fabrics. These high-quality wool fabrics were soon appreciated far beyond Italy's borders.

Tailors and fashion houses worldwide still source fabric from Zegna today – proof of the unmatched quality of the materials. To this day, Zegna consistently positions itself in the top luxury segment. The fabrics are characterized by exceptional fineness, softness, and elegant drape. Some of the most exclusive bales achieve a fineness of only 12 to 13 microns – recently even up to 9.4 microns – a world record that impressively demonstrates the uncompromising search for the best material.

Materials and technical innovations

Zegna fabrics are based on exquisite natural materials such as extra-fine merino wool, cashmere, vicuña wool, and silk. To ensure quality from the source, Zegna acquired the Australian Achill Farm with 12,500 merino sheep in 2014. This vertical integration allows complete control over the entire supply chain.

The Oasi Cashmere initiative will guarantee 100% traceability for cashmere from 2024 onwards. In addition to high-quality fibers, Zegna focuses on innovation in weaving technology. The fabrics are washed in mountain water and produced using computer-controlled looms.

The innovative lines include:

  • Trofeo: Superfine merino wool with high durability.
  • High performance: Breathable, wrinkle-resistant wool for frequent travelers.
  • Cool Effect: Temperature-regulating surface treatment for hot days.
  • Pelle Tessuta: Woven nappa leather on traditional looms.

Important milestones and sustainability initiatives

Ermenegildo Zegna began reforesting the mountainous region around Trivero back in 1929. Over 500,000 trees were planted. In 1993, the 100 km² Oasi Zegna nature and culture reserve was officially opened. It continues to serve as a model for sustainability and social responsibility to this day.

Other important milestones:

  • 1910 – Founding of Lanificio Zegna in Trivero
  • 1938 – First fabric exports to the USA
  • 1968 – Launch of own suit collections
  • 2014 – Acquisition of Achill Farm in Australia
  • 2022 – Launch of the Oasi Cashmere initiative
  • 2023 – Record for the finest wool fiber at 9.4 microns

With additional programs such as #UseTheExisting and participation in recycling consortia, Zegna is actively promoting the circular economy in the textile industry.

Conclusion: Zegna fabrics combine tradition, quality, and technical innovation at the highest level. They represent Italian elegance, environmental responsibility, and textile excellence—a combination that is unparalleled.